THIS IS ONLY FOR STUDENTS THAT TAKE THE NEW PHOTO 102.1

   NEXT CLASS BRING YOUR TRIPOD TO CLASS! 

    CLASS # 4

Shooting Great Sunset Photos

If you like taking sunset photos, you’re not alone. Many photographers I know love to take shots of sunsets. Perhaps its because they imbue a sense of peace in us. Perhaps they’re a challenge to take given the small time window during which the sun sets. You need to be very attentive and fire off many shots during the few seconds the sun goes down. It is also useful to apply multiple exposure settings in these kind of shots.

Tip 1: Get a Full View

When shooting sunsets, it’s important to position yourself so that you get a full view of the sunset. An example is to perch yourself on a high point. Another good idea is to catch the sun reflecting off water. I also like to photograph the sun setting between the leaves of trees. Think about different, creative ways of viewing a sunset. It will help enhance the beauty of your shots.

Tip 2: Keep Shooting

Here’s another tip for shooting sunset photos. Keep shooting! This is very important because there is only a small time window during which the sun sets. Get in as many shots as you can and select the best. With practice, your sunset photos will start looking better and better. 

Tip 3: Clouds

When shooting sunset photos, clouds make a nice backdrop. Clouds add color and texture to an otherwise uninteresting photo. Try to look for cloudy skies to add more variety and texture to your photos.

Tip 4: Shooting Off-Center

Another tip I recommend is to shoot the sun off-center. It’s not essential to keep the sun right in the center of the photo. You can position the horizon at bottom of the frame, so that you can highlight the sky, or perhaps focus on a subject in the foreground. Try this, you can get many interesting silhouette effects.  

Tip 5: Use Multiple Exposure Settings

A good thing to try is to use multiple exposure settings. I use a technique called bracketing (which simply means shooting the same picture at different exposures) to get the best shot. If the picture is too bright, underexpose it and vice versa. To bring out details of a person in the foreground, try using the fill flash or night mode. Experimenting with exposure is very important for getting the best looking sunset photos.
 

Tip 6: Zoom In

Always bring along a telephoto lens when shooting sunsets. That way, if you suddenly have an urge to make the sun larger and more impressive, you can simply zoom in. Some of the best shots of sunsets I’ve seen are done with long focal lengths in this manner.

Five tricks to shoot like a Pro   

That rule of Thirds

If you’ve been taking photographs for any length of time, you’ve probably heard of the “rule of Thirds”. Your camera may even come equipped with a handy grid that you can turn off or on in the viewfinder, which will help you compose your photographs according to this trick. If your camera lacks this feature, simply imagine your scene divided by two horizontal and two vertical lines into nine equal sections. Now position your subject so that he, she or it is centered at one of the four intersections of the imaginary lines.

Place your subject on one of these lines,
or at one of the four intersection points.

Why does this create a better photo? Believe it or not, there is some pretty solid research that supports the theory behind this particular trick. When looking at a photograph, most people’s eyes tend to naturally fall on those four imaginary intersections. So when the subject of the image is placed in one of those spots, the photograph looks more balanced and the viewer is actually more comfortable with what he sees.

Experiment, but remember that the “rule of thirds” is really more like the “guideline of thirds”. Great photographs don’t have to be neatly divided up in this way, but understanding why the rule of thirds works will ultimately help you become a better photographer.

Use lines to lead your viewer’s eye

In photography, chaos is not your friend. People in general aren’t comfortable with chaos, that’s why hardly anyone likes a traffic jam, a crowded mall in December or a confusing photograph. Most people won’t spend a lot of time looking at an image that is busy or directionless (unless that image has other unique qualities), because it’s too hard to sort out the meaning from all the confusion.

To bring order to an otherwise chaotic scene, try to find the lines that will lead a viewer’s eye through the image or towards the subject of the photograph. Converging lines, such as those made by roads and railroad tracks, will naturally draw the viewer’s eye from the foreground into the background, giving the photograph a sense of depth and distance. The same is true for diagonal lines, which can also make an image appear more dramatic and can even convey a sense of motion.

Alternately, vertical and horizontal lines suggest order and stability; vertical lines such as those found in trees and buildings convey strength and horizontal lines are lazy and relaxing. Curved or wavy lines can help a composition, too—they add a more natural beauty and will draw the eye through the entire image rather than from one corner or edge to another.

Pay attention to your background

Many photographers fall into the trap of focusing entirely on the subject of an image while ignoring the background. Subject is important, but a good background can really make or break a photograph. No matter how interesting your subject is, if it is positioned against an ugly or otherwise distracting background you will lose much of that subject’s potential impact. At the very least, ask yourself if your background is distracting. If the answer is yes, use a wider aperture when composing the photograph—a wide aperture will blur the background and make it less distracting. If you can, move away from the background altogether, or angle your camera in such a way that those elements are no longer in the frame.

Not all backgrounds need to be suppressed, of course. Try to find interesting lines or patterns in the setting where you have placed your subject, and position your camera so that those elements are included in the shot without overwhelming it. A good rule of thumb is to choose your background first, then choose or position your subject so that the background compliments the rest of the image.

From, DAVID PETERSON Digital Photo Secrets.

Privet Photo Shop Lessons CALL NOW !!!

WHAT   IS   PHOTO SHOP  ? 

  privet lessons 

Photoshop is image editing or graphics editing program and powerful

 and extremely fun application to use. Photoshop has many fans all over

the globe. Over the years Photoshop has become the pinnacle software

application for image editing. 

      Take your Photo to the next level and have fun doing it !

I will be teaching privet lessons for Photo Shop with or

       without software. Call Ron at 714-402-4712 

 Classes can be any day or night just call to set times.
NO PHOTOSHOP ON WENESDAY NIGHTS

Photo Shop classes are Two
2 1/2 hour classes 

price $ 85.  or $ 110. with software PS 7.        

The first thing you need to master

Besides how to load the memory card – is how to measure the light on the subject that you are photographing. DSLRs have a built-in TTL (Through-The-Lens) light meter, which measures the ambient or reflective light on the subject. The TTL meter needs to become your new best friend when it comes to understanding digital photography and properly exposing a photograph. Mastering this basic necessity will catapult your photos to the next level

Recommended Settings

First examine the picture through the viewfinder. If it looks evenly lit, use the evaluative metering mode. If the person or subject to be photographed has a bright light source like the sun behind them, use center-weighted average metering mode. If your subject is the most significant part of the picture, use spot metering mode - also referred to as ‘partial mode’. Just ensure that you aim the metering mode icon in the center of your camera’s viewfinder- at your subject.

If you want to create extra interest, think about how you are composing the photograph. Remember the rule of thirds and play with convention by framing your subject matter to one side of the frame. Tilt your camera to get an interesting viewpoint and slightly crooked horizon. You can also use the sun creatively; point the camera towards the sun and flare will appear, like light beams on the image.

Ron's metering mode

Point at the dark spot in the photo your taking then

Press the shutter button 1/2 way down to get and hold the Exposure and all Info.

Then move the camera to reframe the shot and shoot !

This will trick the camera into thinking it need to open the lens for more light..

Backlit Subjects

When shooting a backlit subject like a person on the beach with the

sun at they're back you will need to point at their legs or feet to get

the best Exposure for the shot !

PLAYING WITH EXPOSURE

From light to dark and dark to light you can control
how the shot looks. Sometimes the sun is the
predominant thing in the shot if so you can
control the metering by pointing the camera
down or left or right.   Play with what you like
and what you need to be exposed right for

your shot.

Ronhphotography.com

Photo 101

SHOOTING Fireworks

Firework Photography

Photographing fireworks can be a bit tricky due to a variety of factors. The crowds can complicate what kind of access you’ll have and the uncertainty of where and when the fireworks will unfold in the sky can also keep you guessing. Allow yourself a few junk shots in the beginning to get settled and, if possible, try to get to the site early to stake a claim for the best space.

Because you don’t want your camera to keep searching for what to focus on in each shot, set your camera to Manual Mode and your ISO at 200. You can preset your camera in advance by focusing your lens on something that is about the same distance from where you anticipate the fireworks to be and then fix that setting in place in Manual Mode.

Also, if you don’t have a wireless remote release to use with your tripod, now’s the perfect time to get one! A cable release will prevent camera shake or moving the camera during the shot and it will also allow you to keep your eyes trained on the sky and ready to react at the right time.

                                    
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